Food and Wine magazine named an experimental approach to restaurant development in Braddock one of its Restaurants of the Year on Tuesday.
Superior Motors, a passion project by chef Kevin Sousa, opened last summer after years of fundraising and construction delays.
Sousa’s vision was to imbed the restaurant in the community. He promised to hire a large part of his staff from Braddock, and much of the produce on the menu is grown at Superior Motors or at a neighborhood farm.
Food and Wine did laud the food: “Taste a simple halibut seared off in the gut of the hearth or a juicy slice of pork loin cut with trout roe’s salty pop, and you’ll see Superior Motors as a very good restaurant.”
But the restaurant’s role in the emotional and physical invigoration of the struggling mill town clearly resonated with editors.
“Seeing the place in full flower can be an emotional experience,” editors wrote. “The glass-fronted space faces the steel mill across the street, and cloudy gusts from its old smokestacks remind you exactly where you are.”
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